Analogue at Chijmes was my choice for last weekend’s dinner, partly because the friend I was meeting is a vegetarian, and also because I was curious about this resto-bar that is ranked 37 on the 2022 Asia’s 50 Best Bars list.
Glimpsing the menu pre-booking, my meat-loving hubby was a little concerned about the prospect of a fully plant-based dinner. Then again, he has been going on about attempting a couple of days a week of vegetarianism so I figured he’d be fine at Analogue.
Analogue’s website shouts loud and proud about offering a sustainable and inclusive dining experience. And the proof is in everything from the furniture, the food and the drinks.
The aquamarine bar top is an imposing centrepiece inside the cosy restaurant, indeed. Made from 1600kg of recycled plastic bottles, the 20m-long 3D-printed bar flows to a dip, suitable for wheelchair accessibility.
The tables and coasters, too, are made from recycled materials and rather fascinating is the use of “inoculating mycelium spores” to create some of the table tops.
Serious about Sustainability at Analogue.
Owner Vijay Mudaliar (of Native bar fame) and team are dedicated to their philosophy of steering clear of over-farmed foods and replacing them with analogous ingredients is evident in the menu.
As for inclusivity, the fact that Analogue’s cocktails list has as good a selection of equally thoughtful and exciting-sounding mocktails, is something of note for those who do not consume alcohol.
Of course, for the three of us, we chose to “spike” our mocktails ($16 each), something they gladly do with a top-up to $25 a drink.
I’ll just get my comments about the drinks out of the way before I get into my more preferred aspect of the meal – the food.
While we were impressed with some of Analogue’s flavour combinations and techniques, clarifications, infusions and the like, we all felt that the spiked versions of the drinks could have done with a lot more spiking.
We tried a natural wine each from their very limited list (only four by the glass on the menu, of which one, the white, was not available) and opinions were seriously muted.
Mains even my meat-loving hubby enjoyed.
Fortunately, the food did not suffer the same lack of personality. We were impressed with pretty much all of the savoury dishes that we tried.
The Beetroot and Cashew Cheese ($16) was a tangy start to the meal with the tamarind glaze and fermented cashew cheese.
Thinly-sliced king oyster with nori glaze, sea grapes, and sesame snow was the Mushroom Ceviche ($16).
Then came the highlight for everyone, the Jackfruit Tacos ($26). Delicious and spicy jackfruit rendang on crispy taco shells.
For the Eggplant and Curry ($18) dish, I do wish the eggplant had been cooked ever more slightly, otherwise, it was a tummy-pleasing butternut curry and fried chickpeas dish that made us call for more sourdough bread.
Feeling the need for some carbs, we ordered the Poutine ($20) and Analogue’s version was chaat potatoes with mushroom miso and spring onions. It did the job to tip us over nicely into dessert.
Analogue’s sweet offerings.
The Pina Clavo ($10), grilled pineapple with fermented chilli and clove ice cream, was good overall, save for the fact that there wasn’t enough of a clove kick to the coconut ice cream.
As for the Ice Cream Sandwich ($6) which featured a vegan waffle with gula melaka ice cream, there were hopes that the waffle would be crisp, but it wasn’t. Still the ice cream was nice and despite the non-too-enthusiastic response from my fellow diners, the plates were polished off.
My final verdict on Analogue is that I would visit to try the other savoury dishes that I hadn’t, they sound interesting and the prices are attractive, too. I’d either skip spiking my drinks or ask them to be made more boozy, and pass on dessert unless they add new items to the current two that are available.
Analogue:
Address: 30 Victoria Street. #01-31 CHIJMES, Singapore 187996
Contact: info@analogueinitiative.com, + 65 8518 1882
Website: https://www.analogueinitiative.com/
Opening Hours:
Tuesday – Sunday: 5pm – 10:30pm