One does not necessarily think of food when one thinks of Atlas. More likely to come to mind is its impressive Art Deco inspired setting – it’s not completely unthinkable to lose oneself in its splendid grandeur, sinking deep into the plush emerald couches, drunk on all the intricate gold-embellished décor of Atlas.
And with its recent inclusion into the World’s Top 50 Bars list (sliding in as the highest new entry at #15), Atlas has cemented its position as one of Singapore’s pre-eminent cocktail bars.
However, try searching online for references to its menu and you’re either rewarded with lacklustre reviews or no information at all. Not surprising since most reviews are either dated early this year when the focus at Atlas might have been less on the cuisine and more on enlightening tipple-happy customers about its impressive 1000-bottle gin collection.
If not for the fact that I have started a new job around the vicinity, and I am always on the lookout for fancy lunch spots to dine at, I probably would not have stepped into Atlas for a meal either.
But in the span of 2 weeks, I have dined there twice, and thoroughly enjoyed both experiences. Priced at $38 for 2-courses and $48 for 3-courses, the menu sees some impressively-presented items like Lobster and Champagne Risotto and Baby Wellington.
The menu will change, but at least from the Christmas-inspired menu, I walked away thoroughly satisfied.
The Chestnut Veloute is velvety smooth, rich and elevated with the perfume of truffle.
My favourite starter is the Smoked Salmon Terrine – wrapped around a creamy salmon mousse, dotted with pearls of ikura, it’s soft, smooth, smoky and salty all at once. Delicious.
The Duck and Turkey Pie is probably the least impressive, the filling being slightly dry.
For mains, the 2 standouts are the Baby Wellington and the Lobster and Champagne Risotto.
Both saw their respective proteins cooked to perfection. The flaky pastry enveloped the tender beef, and the sweet lobster benefitted from being cooked to just medium. The risotto too was cooked to al dente perfection.
The rolled Monkfish was enjoyed by my colleague, who said the lemon meuniere and caper flowers were a good match with the firm, fresh fish.
Portions are substantial enough that you might be tempted to skip dessert. You could, I am not wowed over by the desserts, not because they are not good but just the choices for this season are not something I would want to “spend” any extra calories on.
With that in mind, both times I shared dessert. One was the 13 Desserts of Christmas, a medley of tiny treats featuring nougat, ice cream, chocolate and so on. Another, Gingerbread Man Cookies that you dunk into vin santo.
Speaking of wine, there are wine pairing options at 2 glasses for $24 and 3 glasses for $30; try resisting that. 🙂
The only danger about dining at Atlas? Major willpower needed to get up and get back to work!
That said, I will definitely drop into Atlas in the new year to see what else they have up their sleeves.
Atlas:
Address: Parkview Square, 600 North Bridge Road, Singapore 188778
Contact: +65 6396 4466
Opening Hours:
Mon – Thu: 10am – 1am
Fri: 10am – 2am
Sat: 3pm – 2am
Sun: Closed