Beurre is new, and it shows. Having opened less than a month ago, teething problems abound and it’s best you arm yourself with some patience if you plan on dining there.
Still does not a cava make.
Take my aperitif for example. I had ordered a glass of cava to go with my oysters, and what arrived was a flute of flat white wine. No bubbles whatsoever. Cava is a sparkling wine. When the server poured it out, she should have noticed the lack of fizz and tossed it out.
But it had to take me returning the glass for her to realise that this was no good. I’m giving her the benefit of the doubt that she didn’t know any better about cava, not that this was intentionally done to finish up the last pour from the bottle.
That said, for $14 a glass, the wine pours are generous, though don’t even think about having the red by the glass without food.
And I have to say, the service staff are warm and personable, even as they make mistakes here and there.
Wine worries aside, how was the food at Restaurant Beurre?
Beurre, meaning butter in French, is the inspiration behind Beurre. It’s the love of butter that drives this young team of chefs led by Jaan alumnus Darwin Wong.
And while you can see expressions of beurre, you don’t exactly walk away feeling like you’ve just spent a couple of hours luxuriating in it.
I had glimpses of the inspiration in the very pretty starter, the Unagi | Mantou ($18). The mantou is more like butter-drenched croutons. It was an interesting combination with the strongly pickled cucumber and lightly grilled unagi. The dish could have done with a lot less of the sakura ebi floss though – it was overpowering the entire dish.
We also had the Pork Belly | Fennel ($16), a dish of deep-fried pork belly with compressed apple and honey jelly. Again, the crisp coating of the pork is clearly a buttered up version of a breadcrumb coating. Not a bad dish, but again, a little too heavy handed on the pickling of the fennel.
Next came the Braised Beef Cheek | Cannoli ($26). No doubt the beef was good. Tender, tasty, better if the pieces were larger so you can really feel the pleasure of sinking your teeth into a lush piece.
It’s served “Cannoli-style”, but not what you’d imagine as a fried roll. Rather it’s a pasta foldover, an unnecessary blanket over the beef. I did like the infusion of truffle in the dish, but truffle and beef, who wouldn’t? And here again, there were pickles in the form of shimeji mushrooms. I’m thinking the restaurant should have called itself Pickles instead.
And we waited, and waited…
Next, was another boo-boo of the night. Our order for the Umami | Capellini ($26) was misplaced and we waited nearly half an hour for this dish. I suppose it’s a good thing? Gave us a chance to create room in our tummy for that and for dessert.
The capellini was good. Uni, XO sauce, hae bi, yes – all working like a charm to coat your tastebuds with what was promised – umami.
For dessert, we had the Peanut Butter | Tart ($14). It came with a sesame ice cream, and was a lot lighter than I expected. Crisp, flaky pastry with touches of peanut butter cream and cognac.
I can appreciate the way the team is thinking, all the flavour experimentation, but I’d give this place some time before I recommend or head there myself. Whether it’s finetuning the service or the menu, best to visit it a few months down the road.
So I’ll see you there in 6 months?
Address: 23 Bukit Pasoh Rd, Singapore 089837
Contact: firstname.lastname@example.org or +65 9660 0597
Tuesday to Saturday (Sunday Lunch only)
Lunch: 11am – 3pm (Last order 2:30pm)
Dinner: 5pm – 10pm (Last order 9:30pm)
Closed on Monday